Vegetable garden

Planting Calendar Builder

Enter your last spring and first fall frost dates, check off the crops you're growing, and get indoor-start, transplant and harvest dates for each one.

Enter both frost dates and check at least one crop to see your timeline.
Indoor start and days-to-maturity figures are general averages for common varieties — check your seed packet for the specific variety you're growing.

Calculated on your device. Nothing is uploaded to a server.

Why a frost-date calendar helps

Vegetable timing lives and dies by frost dates, and getting even one crop's start date wrong can mean a wasted head start indoors or seedlings lost to a late cold snap.

Built around your climate

Every date shown is calculated from your own frost dates, not a generic national average.

Indoor starts included

Crops that need a head start under lights show their indoor sowing date, not just when to plant outside.

Season-length check

Crops that won't mature before your first fall frost are flagged so you can pick a faster variety instead.

How to build your calendar

  1. Enter your frost datesYour average last spring frost and first fall frost, both easy to look up by zip code.
  2. Check your cropsSelect every vegetable or herb you plan to grow this season.
  3. Read the timelineSee indoor start, transplant/direct-sow and harvest dates for each, sorted earliest first.
  4. Watch for warningsA flagged crop means your season may be too short — consider a faster-maturing variety.

About the crop timing dictionary

The built-in dictionary covers around eighteen vegetables and herbs commonly grown in home gardens, each with two general averages: how many weeks relative to your last frost date it's typically started or transplanted, and how many days it usually takes to reach harvest from that point. A negative weeks value means the crop is started indoors before your last frost — tomatoes, peppers and broccoli are classic examples that need a head start under lights. A positive value means it's sown or transplanted outdoors after the last frost has passed, which is typical for beans, corn, squash and cucumbers. These figures are drawn from widely cited general planting guidelines rather than any single seed catalog, so actual timing for your specific variety, soil temperature and local weather can shift things earlier or later. The tool also checks whether a crop's estimated harvest date falls before your first fall frost, and flags it if the growing window looks too tight.

~18 crops

Covers the vegetables and herbs most home gardeners grow, from lettuce to pumpkins.

Indoor & outdoor timing

Distinguishes indoor seed-starting from direct-sow and transplant dates.

Season-length warnings

Flags any crop whose harvest date would land after your first fall frost.

Planting calendar FAQ

Where do I find my frost dates?

Search your city or zip code plus "average last frost date" and "average first frost date" — many local extension offices and gardening sites publish these. They're long-term averages, so treat them as a planning guide rather than a guarantee.

Why do some crops start before my last frost date?

Crops with a negative weeks value are started indoors under lights before the last frost, then transplanted outside once it's safe. Tomatoes and peppers are typical examples — they need a head start indoors in most climates.

What does the not enough growing season warning mean?

It appears when a crop's estimated harvest date falls after your first fall frost date, meaning the days to maturity don't fit inside your frost-free window based on the averages used here.

Are the days-to-maturity numbers exact?

No, they're general averages for common varieties. Specific varieties can mature faster or slower, so check your seed packet for the most accurate number and adjust your expectations accordingly.

Can I plan for more than one crop at a time?

Yes. Check as many crops as you like from the list and the timeline table updates instantly, sorted by which activity happens first.

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